Jaeger-LeCoultre's Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual

Any timepiece connoisseur with an affection for polo will be drawn to the Jaeger-LeCoultre brand as it is known for making watches particularly suitable for playing the game. The Reverso collection is to Jaeger-LeCoultre what the Royal Oak is to Audemars Piguet.

However, like any other well-known brand with a standout collection, some timepieces they offer outside their signature collection are true gems.

For Jaeger-LeCoultre, one of those is the innovative Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual. Introduced at the 2024 Watches and Wonders Geneva in April, the timepiece combines the Duometre mechanism with a triple-axes tourbillon to create a fascinating timepiece with multiple complications.

The watch is powered by the Calibre 388, which features a perpetual calendar and new tourbillon construction with a 'spinning top' effect by incorporating three axes. It beats at 4Hz to enhance its timekeeping function. In addition to the enchanting effect the tourbillon has on the wearer and onlookers, the use of three axes also improves the tourbillon's function of negating the effect of gravity on timepieces. That's a feature that has improved in the development of the tourbillon over time (never mind the reduced utility it has today).

Further making this watch special is the cylindrical hairspring with three titanium cages. Cage #1 is at 90 degrees to the balance wheel, and Cage #2 is at 90 degrees to Cage #1. Both cages are constrained with an axis with a 40-degree tilt and take 30 seconds to make a full rotation. Cage #3 is perpendicular to Cage #2 and takes 60 seconds for a full rotation.

The Duometre concept, designed to counter a complication's negative effect on accurate timekeeping due to the additional power draw, shines in this timepiece as it prevents the tourbillon and perpetual calendar complications from interfering with the accuracy.

The Calibre 388 is designed to allow forward and backward movement of the hour and minute hands without a negative effect on the perpetual calendar. This is an improvement on many implementations of the perpetual calendar where backward movement causes desynchronization of the calendar mechanism, likely leading to damage.

Beyond the technicalities, the Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual incorporates a ‘partial skeleton’ watch design which fully exposes the internal workings of the tourbillon with a blue lacquer background Jaeger-LeCoultre says is a representation of a sky with stars.

This display of fine-craftmanship is next to two calendar sub-dials (day and month) and two retrograde subdials that perfectly complement the relatively large hour and minute subdial with top-quality finishes with opaline, brushed, and azure surfaces. At 3 o'clock is the classical Grand Date display on the hour and minute sub-dial.

All that is displayed through the sapphire crystal over the 18k pink gold case with 34 distinct components. The exquisite case is nicely complemented by an alligator leather strap in brown with an 18k gold folding clasp. Turning the watch on its face reveals the sapphire crystal caseback, exposing the gears showing the Calibre 388 at work.

All told, the Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual is a very special limited edition timepiece with a retail price of $438,000 and only 20 examples.